What Microdermabrasion Treats

Microdermabrasion is listed for a long set of skin concerns. The American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society of Plastic Surgeons each give their own list of what it is for, and the items that match your skin are the ones to raise with a provider.

Know what the treatment is

The American Academy of Dermatology calls microdermabrasion a non-invasive treatment that gently exfoliates your skin. It adds that after a series of treatments, your complexion can appear smoother, brighter, and more even in color. For a plain overview from that source, read microdermabrasion: an overview.

The American Society of Plastic Surgeons describes the method this way: microdermabrasion treatments use a minimally abrasive instrument to gently sand your skin, removing the thicker, uneven outer layer. The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery says a special machine applies tiny rough particles to the face, chest or hands to remove the uppermost layer of dead skin, and that the procedure is painless and non-invasive.

A second description from the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery adds the equipment: microdermabrasion uses a combination of a spray tip and a vacuum to plane the upper level of skin with fine abrasive crystals.

Take away one point from all three: each source describes removing the outer or uppermost layer of skin. If your concern seems to sit deeper than that, ask your provider whether this treatment can reach it.

Match your concern to the dermatology list

The American Academy of Dermatology names the concerns it treats: a dull complexion, uneven skin tone or texture, age spots, dark spots that can appear when acne starts to clear, and melasma.

Check each item against your own skin. If you recognize one, you have a specific topic for your consultation. If you recognize none, ask whether this treatment fits you at all.

The same organization names a second use. Dermatologists also use microdermabrasion to improve the results gained from using anti-aging products and skin-bleaching products. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, microdermabrasion allows these products to penetrate the skin more easily. If you already use such products, tell your provider which ones.

Compare the plastic surgeons' list

A different source gives a wider list. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons says this type of skin rejuvenation is used to treat light scarring, discoloration, sun damage and stretch marks.

The American Society of Plastic Surgeons also lists specific goals: improving age spots and blackheads, improving hyperpigmentation (patches of darkened skin), exfoliating your skin for a refreshed appearance, lessening the appearance of stretch marks, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, reducing or eliminating enlarged pores, and treating acne and the scars left by acne.

Read that list as a statement of what the treatment is used for. It is not a guarantee for your skin. Ask your provider which items on it they would expect to see change in your case, and which they would not. The plastic surgeons' page on microdermabrasion has the full list for reference.

Understand the collagen claim

One more line deserves a careful read. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons says microdermabrasion helps to thicken your collagen, which results in a younger looking complexion. It defines collagen as a protein in your skin which is abundant when you're a child and makes skin appear taut and smooth.

Notice what this does and does not say. It names a mechanism and an appearance. It gives no timeline and no amount. If collagen is why you are interested, ask your provider what change to expect and after how many treatments.

Separate clinic treatment from a home kit

Do not assume a kit and a clinic visit are the same thing. The American Academy of Dermatology says the microdermabrasion that a dermatologist performs differs from the one that you can do at home with a kit, and that a dermatologist treatment goes a bit deeper into the skin.

The same source adds that the procedure is safe for all skin colors. Treat that as a reason to ask about your skin, not to skip the question.

If you are choosing between a kit and a visit, write down what you want to change and ask a dermatologist which route fits that goal.

Questions to bring

Each question comes from one of the sections above.

1. Which of my concerns appear on the dermatology list or the plastic surgeons' list?
2. Which of them would you expect this treatment to change, and which not?
3. How many treatments should I plan for?
4. Is a home kit or a clinic treatment the better fit for me?
5. Do the products I already use matter?

Bring photos of the areas that concern you if that helps the conversation. Ask the provider to explain each answer in plain words.

Make the list work for you

Begin with a short list: pick the one or two concerns from the lists above that you care about most. Check them against what the sources say the treatment is for. Then book a consultation and ask the questions above. Keep the answers with this list so you can compare them with what the sources say.